Paris might not be the first place that you think of as a digital nomad. Yes, it’s expensive, Yes, it’s difficultish to find a place to live. But for some like myself, living in Paris is an absolute dream come true and believe it or not, it is starting to attract more nomads from around the world. So for those of you wondering what it’s like to live here as a digital nomad, here is my digital nomad’s guide to Paris

About Living in Paris

Paris is as magical as you make it. It can either feed your soul or break you down. Paris is gritty, expensive and at times rude, but at the same time can also be beautiful, inspiring and diverse. It really all depends on your expectations and your lifestyle. For me, living in Paris was an absolute dream, but for other people I know it was the worst experience they ever had. I think the main thing to remember is that Paris is a real city. It’s a city in which people live, not just the dream city that exists in the movies. That Paris isn’t real. That Paris is a fantasy. It is that Paris that most people dream about and for many is the reason why people are left disappointed. One of my friends said she hates Paris because it’s dirty but loves New York City. Both are dirty but only one has that illusion of romance and beauty attached to it. So if you’re moving to Paris, remember it’s a city like any other city in the world with the same problems. Paris is a beautiful and magical place if you just let go of that illusion.

Cost of Living in Paris

Paris is an expensive city. There’s no question about that. To live in Paris is to sacrifice some of the luxuries you would have in a smaller city. Rents are ridiculously expensive, eating out definitely can put a dent in your wallet and even the cost of groceries can be hard to handle if you’re not buying from the right places. 

Cost of Rent

If you want an apartment in the city centre you’re looking at about $1500 USD/mo for a small apartment with a shared bathroom to $3000 USD/mo and above for a one bedroom apartment. However if you venture a bit outside of the centre towards Canal St. Martin, Belleville or further afield you’re looking at around $700 to $2000 USD/mo. The great thing about Paris is it is well connected by metro, so even if you live further away, it is still easy to get into the centre of the city. 

Cost of Groceries

If you’re shopping out at grocery stores for the week (as you would in most North American cities), you’re going to be paying twice as much. Do as the Parisians do and shop everyday at the local markets. Better yet, shop at farmers markets around the city for the best prices and support your local farmer and producer. Here’s the average cost of some staples:

• Milk: €1
• Baguette: €1
• Local produce/500g: €1.20
• Eggs: €3
• Butter: €4

How to Find Accommodations

As an expat moving to Paris for the first time, your best option is Airbnb. Yes, you are paying more than the average however finding an apartment in Paris long term without knowing the system can be difficult. Plus Airbnb’s come fully furnished and apartment rentals do not. Once you’re settled, you can visit a local “immobilier” to help you with finding a longer term rental. They will also help you navigate all of the bureaucracy in renting in Paris

Which Neighbourhoods to Live in

This all depends on your budget. As mentioned earlier, where you live in Paris largely determines how much you are willing to pay. The closer you are to the Seine and the Eiffel Tower, the more you’ll pay. My favourite neighbourhoods for expats looking to live long term would be Canal St. Martin, Republique, Belleville and Bastille. Montparnasse is also a great option and has many affordable options. What it lacks in charm it makes up for in modern living options. A good rule of thumb when living further outside of Paris is to pick a place within a five to ten minute walk of a metro station. From there it’s up to you to decide how long you want to travel. I lived in Canal St. Martin and Belleville and absolutely loved my time there. I had friends live out near Vincennes and it took them 45 minutes to travel into the city. For me that was too far, but they loved the tranquility and prices since they didn’t travel into the city often. 

Transportation

Paris is a very well connected city. The public transportation system is also surprisingly affordable (coming from an expensive transportation city like Toronto). A single ticket costs €1.90, however, if you’re using the Metro or bus regularly, it might be worth getting a monthly pass called “Navigo”. You can purchase these passes at most metro stations. The monthly pass covers all zones of the Metro, RER regional train, bus, and tram and costs only €73. This covers travel to the suburbs, airports, Versailles and even Paris Disney.

Top Things to Do in Paris

Once you’ve got the touristy things out of the way here are a few things that the locals do. Come enough times and you might even make some new friends.

Go to Markets

Probably my favourite thing to do in Paris and probably for most of the locals as well. There are many open air markets around the city. My favourites are the: Marché d’Aligre, Rue Cler, Saxe-Breteuil (amazing Eiffel tower view), Marché Pont de l’Alma, and Marché Raspail. At these markets you’ll find tons of local produce and products like butter, cheese, honey, eggs, wine and even oysters from Normandy. I used this guide from the moment I arrived and it never let me down

Have a Picnic

Once you’ve picked up your supplies, there are so many places around the city to sit down and relax. My favourite places to picnic include: the Champ de Mars just before sunset, Place des Vosges, anywhere along the Seine or Canal St. Martin, and the Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Pick up a Croissant or Baguette in the Early Morning

I’m not sure if this is a Parisian thing to do, but it was one of my favourite things to do and was an integral part of my morning routine

Go Shopping at a Flea Market

Every weekend around the city, many streets shut down and are covered with stalls selling everything from second hand clothing, jewelry, housewares, records. Mix and match some teacups and saucers, pick up some antique forks and knives. I furnished much of my apartment from these flea market finds. Then shipped them to my next home

Party on the Seine

All along the Seine you’ll find some party barges featuring live music, DJ’s, and drinks. These are great places to watch the sunset and party into the night. Don’t want to pay those prices? Find a seat sitting along the Seine, bring your own wine and enjoy the music 

Visit Some Lesser Known Museums

Once you’ve braved the hordes of tourists visiting the Louvre or Musee d’Orsay, try some lesser known museums tourists don’t usually include on their lists. I enjoy the Musée Rodin, Musée Gustave Moreau, Musée Picasso and Musée Yves-Saint Laurent

Visit a Drag Cabaret

Yes, cabaret shows in Paris are dreadfully touristy. A visit to the Moulin Rouge is on many tourists bucket lists but not for any local Parisian. Instead, try a drag cabaret. Located in Pigalle, where most other cabaret shows are, try Madame Arthur. The atmosphere here is fun and lighthearted and comes without the crowds and wait times

Sit at a Cafe for Hours

This one is obvious. Parisians love their cafés. Sit down for an hour or two (or three) over a cup of coffee. Even at the most touristy of cafes, you’ll never be given the stink eye to move it along. You’ll most likely find it difficult to even get your bill. More often now you’ll also find more café’s that offer free wifi for the remote work crowd.

Walk

Despite the amazing transit system, Paris is a walking city. It’s a gorgeous city with amazing architecture, and amazing sights to be found just by wandering around. If you have the time do yourself a favour and walk from point A to point B. It’ll save you money as well as help you burn off those croissant calories

Play Petanque

The best way to make friends with the locals in Paris is to learn how to play petanque. It’s basically the French version of bocce, which is kind of similar to playing lawn bowling. Watch them play, work up the courage to ask them to teach you and before you know it you’re one of the gang. Want to really make an impression? Bring snacks! You’ll always find the best potluck at these get togethers

Shop For Second Hand and Vintage Designer Clothes

As the epicenter of fashion, you’ll find many shops here specializing in second hand designer clothing worn, maybe once by the fashion elite before it “went out of style”. Some of my favourites are:

• La Boutique de Cara – 80 Rue de Turenne
• Dépôt Vente Deluxe – 2 Bis Rue du Roi de Sicile
• L’Ibis Rouge – 35 Boulevard Raspail
•  Thanx God I’m a VIP – 12 Rue de Lancry

Dining Out in Paris

Paris is one of the culinary capitals of the world. Some of the best restaurants in the world are here and French food is absolutely remarkable. That being said, it could cost a pretty penny. If you go out for dinner at a top restaurant it could cost up upwards of €100. So obviously yes, treat yourself once in a while but there is a way to dine out on a budget. The best culinary deal in all of Paris is to have a formule lunch. Many top cafe’s, bistros, and bakeries offer a formule lunch. This is a set menu and usually includes a appetizer (usually a salad), a main and a dessert, usually for no more that €12 euro. A steal. Just wander around any street, have a look at the menu you fancy and have a seat. This is why Parisians take such a long lunch. Or that’s what I believe at least. 

Paris also loves a happy hour. Usually between the hours of 5pm and 7pm you’ll find great deals on cocktails, house wines and beer, as well as bar snacks.

Is Paris Safe?

In general, yes. I have wandered the streets of Paris into the late hours of the evening (or early hours in the morning) and have never felt unsafe or uncomfortable. That being said, pay attention to your surroundings. Parisians are known to protest and sometimes these protests turn violent. So just don’t venture into these areas and you’ll be fine. Also use common sense and don’t walk down empty alleyways. Walk on main streets and where the people are. There are always people around. Just keep an eye on your surroundings and you’ll be fine. 

Pros and Cons of Living in Paris

What is the Visa Situation?

As of right now, there is no digital nomad visa to live in France. So there are limited options for an expat to stay long term. For most countries you can stay in the EU for up to 3 months in the Schengen area then you will need to leave the area for 3 months before you can return. For others, you will need to apply for a Schengen Visa in advance and sadly sometimes it’s not easy as you need to go to great lengths to prove you have funds to travel and do not plan to work while there.

If you qualify for citizenship in an EU country, I highly recommend that you contact the embassy and try to arrange ancestral citizenship if possible. It might take a year to come through, but with that passport you are entitled to travel and stay in the EU as long as you wish. I did mine through the Polish embassy and used an immigration lawyer to help. I received my citizenship and passport in just over a year.

Final Verdict.

I don’t live in Paris anymore as I’m more of a nomad, but I fully plan to return one day when I’m tired of moving around so much. I’ve fallen in love with the city and can’t wait to move back